The quality of a woven label depends not only on weaving — folding and finishing are just as critical. The same label material looks and behaves very differently when flat cut, hot cut, folded or mitred, directly affecting sewing efficiency and wearing comfort. This guide explains the common cutting and folding methods so you can choose the right process when ordering.
1. Why Finishing Determines Label Quality
Freshly woven labels have raw edges that fray and fuzz if left unfinished — once sewn into garments they look bad and may irritate the skin. Finishing gives labels clean, dimensionally stable edges that are easy to sew. Edge treatment is exactly what brands most often overlook when approving woven label samples.
2. Flat Cut vs Hot Cut: Two Basic Edge Cuts
| Cut Method | Process | Features | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat cut | Cold knife cutting | Clean edge, may fuzz slightly | Labels to be folded or bound |
| Hot cut | Hot knife / ultrasonic | Melt-sealed edge, no fraying | Labels used directly, satin labels |
Satin labels are usually hot cut, as satin yarns fray more easily; regular polyester taffeta labels can be flat cut, since the raw edge gets enclosed during folding.
3. Folding Methods: Folded, Mitred & Bound
- Folded (center fold) — the label is folded in half and stitched at both ends; common for main labels, can double as care info
- Folded ends (both ends) — both ends are folded inward for a clean edge; good for labels with exposed edges
- Bound edge — stitching wraps the edge; strong and wash-resistant, for demanding brands
- Mitred (arrow fold) — ends are folded into an arrow shape for easy insertion into side seams
4. Folding Options for Care & Main Labels
Care labels carry many lines of information, so they are often folded into sections to fit inside necklines or side seams. Common folds are half fold, tri-fold, four-fold and Z-fold; more folds mean a shorter label but slightly less convenient reading. Markets like the EU impose mandatory care label content, so fold design must balance full compliance information and wearing comfort.
5. Sewing Fit & Sampling Advice
Folding must match the sewing process: folded labels suit necklines, while mitred or double-folded labels fit side seams; care labels are usually pre-folded and sewn directly at the garment factory. When sampling, confirm four elements at once — material, edge cut, fold method and sewing position — to avoid rework in bulk production.
Related Articles
- Trims FAQ: all articles
- Woven Label Types: Satin, Taffeta, Jacquard & Double-Selvedge
- Woven Label Width Guide: Standard Sizes & Custom
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