Hang tag hole punching often looks like a trivial last step — yet it is a top cause of rework. An off-centre hole makes the tag hang crooked; a too-small hole makes fasteners hard to push through and slows tagging; a hole too close to the edge tears on the first tug. Get position and diameter wrong and the whole batch is re-punched. Here is how to set hole position, diameter, edge distance and eyelets right the first time.

Keep one rule in mind: decide the attachment first, then the hole size and position — never punch first and choose the fastener later. Below are reference diameters for common attachment methods, plus placement and reinforcement tips.

1. Pick the Attachment First, Then the Hole Size

AttachmentHole diameter (ref.)Notes
Cotton / twine string (knotted)3–4 mmThe knot must catch; a smaller hole looks neater
Elastic string3–4 mmKnotted or looped; the hole should hide the knot
Plastic loop4–5 mmBoth legs must slide through easily; too small is hard to insert
T-pin (tagging gun)3–5 mmHole slightly larger than the pin; too tight jams, too loose wobbles
Metal eyeletEqual to eyelet ODThe factory presses the eyelet; the hole matches the eyelet spec

The table shows common industry ranges — confirm the final size by sampling with your real paper and fasteners.

2. Where to Punch: Centred, Corner & Edge Distance

  • For portrait tags the classic choice is a centred hole near the top — balanced, and the tag hangs naturally;
  • Landscape and die-cut tags usually take the hole at a corner or on the balance line — keep it clear of the main artwork and text;
  • Edge-distance rule of thumb: keep the hole centre at least 8–10 mm from the nearest edge, or no less than 1.5 times the hole diameter — the closer to the edge, the easier it tears, especially on thick board;
  • For two holes (tear-off stubs, twin strings), mark the spacing and position on the die line so the holes stay consistent.

    • 3. When to Add an Eyelet

    An eyelet (metal ring) protects the hole from stretching and tearing and upgrades the look of the tag. Consider one when:

  • the tag is inserted and removed repeatedly (reusable or loyalty-style tags);
  • the attached item is heavy or rough handling may deform an unprotected hole;
  • thick board cracks at the punch edge — the eyelet holds it together;
  • you want a metallic detail that echoes the brand — gold, silver, bronze or matte black.

    • Eyelets add finishing time and cost, and the hole must be re-sized to the eyelet outer diameter — sending the eyelet and string with your sample request is the safest route.

    4. Punch Quality & Acceptance Checks

  • Bulk runs are die-punched, so position and size are fixed by the tool — every piece in the batch must match;
  • on receipt check the hole edges: clean and sharp, no fuzz, no torn or cracked board;
  • use the same tooling for sample and bulk — if the die changes, re-approve a sample first;
  • test with the real fastener: thread a production string or T-pin through to check the fit and smoothness.

    • 5. What to Specify When Ordering

  • ① hole diameter and shape (or a drawing for special holes) ② hole position (die line with edge distances) ③ eyelet or not, and colour ④ a real fastener sample (the safest option) ⑤ quantity and packing
    • 💡 TAGE tip: hole punching, eyelet setting and stringing are all done in-house, matched with cotton string, T-pins or loops. Hang tag trial orders start at 2,000–3,000 pcs and sampling takes 3–7 days — send your chosen string or pin with the artwork, and the sample comes pre-threaded so bulk never surprises you.

    Dongguan TAGE Packaging specialises in hang tags, woven labels, care labels and garment packaging for export, with custom and die-cut hang tags to sample. Send your die line and fasteners — get sampling advice and a quote.

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